Kilmore Quay's Unique Vernacular Architecture
One of Kilmore Quay’s most unique features is, without doubt, its enduring thatched houses, remnants of a past that has largely vanished from many parishes in the county. These 18th- and 19th-century dwellings still line the main street in the village, enchanting visitors with a quaintness that reminds them of a slower and simpler pace of life.
In times past, a visitor would enter the humble abode through a small porch and a traditional half-door that led straight into the hearth of the home. There, he would have sat on a chair or a stool that wobbled slightly on clay or cobbled floors. He would be offered tea or water, drunk from one of the crocks kept near the door on a handmade “stillion” (a small wooden bench). The centrepiece of the room was often the dresser—the pride and joy of the bean an tí (woman of the house). The visitor would have warmed himself by the fire as bread baked slowly in a lidded iron pan suspended by hooks over the griddle sitting atop a “crow” (a tripod). There was once a time when Kilmore Quay and its environs held more thatched cottages than anywhere else in Ireland. But many have since been lost to neglect or re-roofed with slates.
Building Techniques
Building techniques for thatched cottages varied from region to region, a vernacular craft passed down through generations. In Kilmore Quay, this tradition manifested in thick mud or clay walls designed to insulate the home and support the heavy weight of the roof. These walls were treated with lime wash a breathable coating that shielded the building from the elements. A hallmark of Kilmore Quay ‘s local style was the distinctive half-gables found on the end walls.
The roofs were usually half-hipped creating the undulating rounded silhouette typical to Kilmore Quay. They were crowned with stubby chimneys and the golden hue of fresh wheat or oat straw. Historically, the internal framework of the roof was made out of timbers (including old washed up ships timbers) and tree boughs, over which hand-cut bundles of dried reed were lashed. Straw was then meticulously sewn onto the frame using a thatching needle.
Christy Bates, Ballyburn, Kilmore Quay, making sprays or spars.
Sprays were cut to length, split in half, they were hammered about half way down to break down the fibres so they could be twisted and bent over to form a kind of pin used to hold the bundles of reed in place
Tools of the Trade
Mick Gallagher, Victor Branigan and John Nunn were the generation of thatchers who shifted from straw to water reed in the 80s because of its durability. Some of the reed was harvested from the marshes at Castlebridge.
While a traditional straw roof typically lasted 7-8 years, a water reed roof endured for well over 20 years before needing to be replaced.
Thatching needles.
Photo courtesy of John Nunn
The legget
This tool with a large rectangular base was used to hit the “butts, the thick cut ends of the reed of straw and driving them upwards into the roof. Photo courtesy of John Nunn.
Skilled Craftmanaship
Thatching requires strength and craftsmanship. It is a hard labour of love that is slowly dying nationwide. But Kilmore Quay remains a stronghold for the craft thanks to renowned thatchers Matt Whelan, Vinnie Donnelly, Sara Leach and James Dillon.
With over thirty years of experience since his first apprenticeship, Matt Whelan has refined thatching into a true art form, passing his passion and expertise to the next generation through the Irish School of Thatching. Among his trainees was Sara Leach, one of only two female thatchers in Ireland. Recently featured on Nationwide, Sara has been a local advocate for government support, arguing that without intervention, this vital trade may not survive. Once seen as symbols of poverty, thatched cottages have become some of the crown jewels of Irish heritage. But they face a modern crisis: with less than 20 thatchers left in Ireland and the need to import better quality water reed from Turkey or France, the cost of maintenance has become a significant barrier for many thatched homeowners. Insurance costs have also soared, with premiums three or four times higher than for standard homes.
Thatched cottages are not just a backdrop for visitors: they are a living link to our ancestors’ creativity and resourcefulness. To lose them and the skills of thatchers like Matt, Sara and James would mean losing the soul of the village.
Did you know?
The iconic half-door wasn’t just for keeping livestock out. It was a clever response to the Window tax. At the end of the 17th century, under King William III, daylight became taxable luxury. To avoid the fee, many Irish kept their window count to a minimum and use half-doors to let in light and air. Because the law defined it as a door, not a window, the half-door remained tax-free!
Many Irish Thatched cottages had a unique feature called a “peep-hole” or “spy-hole”. These were placed in the wall between the open fire and the front door to prevent drafts from coming in. Sitting at the hearth, you could see through the peep-hole who was coming to your door, friends and foes alike, without moving away from the heat of the fire.
For more information, please visit
https://www.irishschoolofthatching.ie/ https://www.sarathethatcher.ie/
References
https://www.heritagecouncil.ie/content/files/irish_thatched_roofs_consultation_document_1999_5mb.pdf
https://archive.cottageology.com/irish-cottage-history/
